I received this engine as part exchange for the 3.5hp OK I restored (on this website), it has quite a bit of paint damage and was not the correct green anyway.
It has quite a bit of work needs doing such as badly worn governor/shaft, oil calibrator not functioning, no crank to side shaft skew gear cover, crank splash guard, cooling tank making and new gib head key making to name a few.
I dare say there will be a few other anomalies pop up on the way as well
I made a start quite early just to do something on it whilst restoring the Amanco, I stripped out the oil calibrator to investigate the reason for nor pumping.
The drive was slipping on the shaft inside and also one of the pump pistons was so badly corroded that it wouldnít make any pressure anyway, I sorted the drive problem and made a new piston.

Dec 2012
Started restoration now and stripped the whole thing to pieces, I couldnít resist doing a bit of machining and sorting the governor and side shaft wear, this had been held on with a loose fitting split pin rather than a tapered pin which resulted in a lot of slop wearing both governor housing and shaft.
Iíve bored the housing, turned the shaft down then made a sleeve and shrunk fitted it to the shaft, also made a pin.

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Click image for "as received pic'"
Jan 2013
With it all stripped Iíve commenced preparation for painting, it had quite a few large blisters which Iíve removed and filled.
It is now in primer ready for final painting.

May 2013-05-18
Thought Iíd better make an entry before getting so far I forget what Iíve done.
Over the last few weeks Iíve been painting top colour and am not far from being complete.
The mag trigger had lost one of its springs so made a new one from a power hacksaw blade (ruddy Ďard)

Click images for full pic's
Painting is almost finished now having just applied final coat to base and fuel tank this afternoon (19/05/2013), a couple of small things to finish (governor weights, inlet valve cage etcí).
Paint needs to harden somewhat before attempting to work on it, need to source some large hard wood for a trolley anyway so canít do much anyway yet, also need to make a splash guard and Iíve started making a cover for the crank skew gear as all it had was a copper item made for safety.
A few picís of painted parts and skew gear guard so far.

Base in first coat
Head and some general parts in top coat
Just a small update, one of the things that was missing is the crank skew gear cover, Iíve made a replacement cove and is in primer at the moment.
I starting the process of aquiring oak for a large trolley so hopefully Iíll soon be building that

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I'v esince aquired remnants of a Ruston 8AP which is the same size and basic design as this, someone had started to make a new exhaust valve and guide for it.
I've completed the manufacture and will use it to replace the repaired one on this OK.
Image has both original and the completed 8AP one.
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Second image is of the oak I have and commenced making trolley
Work has temporarily ceased to complete friends APR restoration and commisioning of my new milling machine (Beavermill MK2
Date today 25/01/14
back to
"further aquisitions"
Just to keep this going I've made a start back on this project, I'm now using trolley I received it on as time is going by and will be too long for oak one I planned.
I'm lowering slightly by using front wheels on rear and a diferent pair on front, not sure of finish yet painted black or posibly clad in hard wood
Trolley is now painted black and front wheels are nearly complete, the smaller front wheels have a 65mm I/D so I've made sleeves to reduce to 35mm to suit axles.
Thought I'd never get to this stage
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Work has moved along a bit now and Iíve got some progress to report
The trolley is now complete apart from painting wheels which Iíll probably do nearer end, ain case is now on trolley and
head is on.
Crank had been replaced with new one at some time but had been left full length (Iíve been told they are supplied
long to be cut to user's requirements), Iíve cut both ends and have mounted crank in lathe and faced ends.
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Iíve reassembled piston back onto conrod using original rings and is now fitted in bore, Iím in the process of setting
crank ready to fit conrod to crank
Things are now starting to take shape, with crank, rod and piston in Iím working on the re-fitment of the side shaft
There are quite a few issues with this as someone in the engines earlier life has (for want of a better analogy) bodged
repairs which has resulting in adding to problems rather than fixing.
The governor bowl has had its taper pin replaced with a split pin which resulted in a badly worn shaft and bowl, I had to
machine shaft and bowel to sleeve then machine to original size also made a new tapered pin.
Also the exhaust cam follower roller pivot pin was badly worn so had to make another, making the side shaft re-fit a
rather long stretched out job.
Click Images
Been doing some more between rallies, as previously quoted the side shaft/governor assembly taking quite some
engineering to get set-up.
Had to make a new governor follower pad and sleeve throttle lever as both had hideous wear.
Parts are being such a problem to go together youíd think they were all from different engines, front end and governor
are nearing completion now.
Here are one or two pictures.
follower pad
throttle lever
side shaft
front end
click images
I've been doing some fiddly tarty bits this weekend  I must admit, so a small update I'm afraid but had to be done, here are a few pictures
Upper governor
Fuel valve parts 1
Fuel valve parts 2
Fuel valve
Parts on head
Click images for big pictures
Benn doing a bit more to the engine, I've put flywheel back on preliminarily and spent quite a lot of time getting Wico EK to trigger satisfactorily.
EK's are a marvelous mag but when old and worn need a lot of thought to make them trigger briskly, they need to really flick (clue in name "flick mag"), I've given it a lot of care and now have it flicking really hard.
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If you run video you'll hear that the EK is flicking quite vigorously
Well realized although far from finished with a little touches it'd be possible to go for a starting attempt.
With a little help from a friend who advised me on Ruston valve timing (I had it a tooth late) we went for a go, the ignition was a little retarded causing a lot of fire from exhaust port but not enough to prevent a start (now timed it earlier).
There's still so work to do on throttle setting and governing but at least it breaths.
Here's a video of it running for the first time since restoration.
No exhaust so cracks a bit!!!!!
After run up I found that a problem shot up, there was a nasty lumping from crank, I amended some play (tiny amount) in
big end but as thought wasnít the cause.
I locked the crank and big end up and found that even though the gib key in the flywheel was tight there was a small
amount of rotational play.
On investigation I found that the key that was used by the person who built this before had used an incorrect key (even
angle of taper was wrong), Iíve made a new one from a larger Ruston key.
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I obtained an exhaust doughnut from a friend but was in poor condition with both treads un-serviceable, I made a
couple of inserts with threads in and braised them in.
Pictures show details
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Progress is slowly taking place, I started to make a splash but my sheet steel isnít long enough, moved onto making new
crank main bearing nuts and fitting along with the wick oilers.
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Also Iíve rebuilt and installed the oil calibrator tank, original actuator rod was in very poor condition so have made new.
I have had it running a couple of times since rebuild and although short runs I'm optimistic that it'll be fine.
Here's a very short poor video clip taken on my phone.
Having painted the flywheel satin black Iíve moved onto rebuilding the oil calibrator assembly, when I received this
engine there was only one sight feed and that was plumbed onto the side shaft rear.
Should be two, one on the cylinder and the other feeding the big end ring oiler feed, Iíve made a second sight feed and
re-plumbed the system as should be.
The pumps are bled and working but drop rate is nowhere near enough so have to find why (this could be why previous
owner used drip oilers.
Tank remounted
Original sight feeder on cylinder
New sight feeder parts machined
New sight feeder complete
Assembly complete
Assembly complete bigger pic'
Iíve made a start on the splash guard as there wasnít one when received it, a job Iíve dreading but is going better than
This isnít as it should be with curved angle edges as I canít curve angle myself so itís just a flat affair with a beaded edge
(I actually prefer this).
It is in stage now of preparing for paint.
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Also as there was only one side shaft wick oiler (and that was chrome plated) Iíve commenced making new ones, I
completed and fitted front one
Thought I'd better get some recent progress documentated, firstly I've now completed the splash guard and painted
I've also gotten quite a way into producing the cooling system, I've made a tank from a 70lt oil drum but is still blue at the moment
I've decided to mount tank on rear of trolley so to this end I've made a support frame
Work is continuing on the cooling tank, fitments are complete, new top anti-splash lip has been fabricated and welded
in and painted.
Iíve been making fuel tank straps and fixings at the same time and tank is now pretty much fitted.
Fabricated anti-splsh
lip welded in
In primer
First top coat
Straps made
First trial fitment
Straps complete and fitted
I've made a fuel filter as one was not on when I got this engine, I just need to make gauze filter and plumb it in.
Well the engine is complete apart from decals and setting up and running, cooling tank is now plumbed onto engine and
finishing touches have been mainly done.
Trolley wheels are now painted to match the trolley and weather permitting over the next three days Iíd like to get it
outside and run it proper at which time Iíll get better pictures and some reasonable video.
Fuel filter complete and fitted
Three angles of general engine images
Click images for bigger pictures
Got the engine out on a sunny Saturday and ran it up, I was very fast at first but managed to get speed down a bit, one or
two problems became apparent.
There was a seepage of water from head gasket and the Wico EK mag trigger fulcrum became loose (the hole in bracket
isnít round and pinch bolt became loose (need to sleeve this which I should have done at start!!)), this resulted in
ignition timing became retarded and exhaust pot, head outlet and valve becoming overheated.
Iíve stripped the head off again and made new head gaskets and where exhaust comes out the paint had flaked off, I was
trying to make sure all loose paint was off with intention of re-painting that area and blew with airline which blew all the
paint off head!!!.
I made the mistake of using spray cellulose red oxide primer instead of usual brush on stuff (that is thinned with white
spirit), the top coats havenít adhered at all to this so having to repaint the head.
Paintless head
Heeeeís back
Having made new gaskets for head and repainted it Iíve rebuilt the engine, re-times but it has still got back to firing at
TDC so was running today but labouring a bit.
Iíve now once again re-timed to just before TDC but have no petrol to test so will continue fine tuning next weekend.
Iíve done a video of it running a bit faster than I want to end up at.
Soon be putting the decals on now
Engine is now complete just tying up one or two small loose ends, the decals are now on and have a picture (albeit
inside (will put a better one on when next get engine outside.
Iíve also made a finial for the exhaust this has been like a signature on my engines since started building them, in fact
Iíve made one or two for other people so if you see one on an engine like these I probably made it.
Engine will be rallied soon (unless someone offers me a lot of money for it) probably first being Rackheath.
With decals on
Apart from a fuel leak at tap and unions and fitting a drain tap to block, this is finished.
Iíve solidly anchored throttle, not idea as itís not being controlled by governor but I struggled to get it to run less erratic
with it working (just means itíll not be able to be left un-attended).
Had it running today and on heating oil with a little petrol in, the tap in the coolant wasnít a good idea as it got too hot
so took it out and was fine with the half BSP hole where it came out.
It ran for quite some time quite satisfactorily.

Here are two videos, one running fast and the other running slow
Well having fitted block drain tap and hopefully sorted leak at fuel tap I suddenly remembered that the crank handle I
have is a quarter of an inch bigger than the crank (crank is 2.25 inch and handle was 2.5 inch.
Iíve milled the handle out round and sleeved down to correct size.
Engine will be going to itís first rally next weekend (Royal Norfolk show ground Saturday and Flixton Aviation museum
Engine is now for sale if anyone wants it.
Handle at stages of sleeving procedure

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Only just remembered to update this, engine was sold after it's first rally which was at Royal Norfolk show ground in April 2015 to a gentleman name of Stafford Bucks and it's now residing in France.