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"further aquisitions"
I received this engine a good few months ago in a very rusty condition, sadly so rusty that the engine number has been lost (according to Keith Smiggle the Amanco guru in the states) there was only one place where there was a number and that's on the end of the crank shaft.
I have managed to get it to run after repairing the igniter and making a working generator (most refer to this incorrectly as a mag, low tension doesn't use a magneto but a simple dynamo, I didn't run it too long as the trolley it was received on is so old and decrepit that it could quite easily collapse.

Some pic's of it's received condition
Short vid of first poor run
For safe testing whilst improving running my first thing is to make a trolley for it so I've started using some second hand mahogany
I have made a bit more progress with the trolley
Trolley is getting very near now I need to make axles and remove rear axle tie rods from original trolley, restore and fit them to this, also need to make steering bearing plates.
Click images for pictures
Click images for pictures
Click images for pictures
Steering bearing plates are now complete, fitted and painted, I still need to make axles, restore wheels and make tug handle mounts
I've started making the axles and using original wheels here are some pictures of my progress so far
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Making stub axles
Ready for welding
Boring wheels
I have been attempting to remove the gib key from the left (igniter side) flywheel so far without success, first try only succeeded in sheering the head off.
I then tried getting the wheel center throbbing hot and a drift through the spokes with a lump hammer, still no movement.
The latest try involved making a heavy slide hammer and welding it to the key but still can't even move it a thou.
At last
Finally I am able to report some progress.
After a long struggle I've finally got the flywheels off, this was done with brute force in the end.
I made a large piece of bar with a hole just large enough to slide over the crank a sliding fit and a bit deeper, I placed this over the crank and commenced hitting it as hard as I could with a lump hammer.
After quite some hitting I achieved a quarter of an inch movement inward of the wheel, I then used my home made slide hammer welded to the remains of the gib key, this resulted in after some sliding the key coming out.
Engine is now stripped out and ready to commence restoration
I need to source some crank/cam gears or make some as the originals although working are badly worn, I've contacted Keith Smiggle (Amanco specialist in the states) and HitnMissin the states but have had no reply as yet.
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larger pic's
Parts hve now been roughly cleaned and ready for taking to shot blasters, cylinder bore is in rather a bad state, it's obviously had quite a bit of moisture at some period as it it quite badly corrosion pitted.
I am considering boring the cylinder out myself and resleeving if I have enough travel on my milling machine.
All of the large parts have now been grit blasted and in red oxide primer, I've commenced filling the worst pitted areas.
I'm also looking into sourcing or making gear blanks to make new cam gears.
Click image
Click image
Iíve started filling and rubbing down the really badly pitted areas, Iím not going for absolute perfectly smooth finish but some areas were really badly corroded.
Iím considering a satin rather than gloss finish when I paint as I believe it will look so much better on a red engine (I always think the glossy red Amancoís look far too artificial).
Click on images for large pic's
Also I've after a lot of considering options I've ordered a pair of plain spur gears from Brammer bearings in Norwich which I will machine to suit my needs, these were quite expensive but the cheapest option.
I considered making my own but I would need to purchase gear cutting equipment for my mill which some time I will get but for now it would be even more expensive.
The cylinder bore will have to be done by a friend with a horizontal mill as mine hasn't enough hieght from bed to quill once the boring tool is in (bore is quite long).
I'm told by him that a sleeve should be obtainable from stock at a supplier he uses.
I have had some paint made for it by Morreli paints in Norwich, I intended a satin finish but the paint is quite glossy.
As the matt additive they sue would make it hard to cover I may add some more to a final coat, I will see how it looks when it starts to get built up.
I've painted the base so far and I've now completed the trolley.
Click images for larger pic's
A little more prgress has been made.
Main engine case has now been painted and mounted on the base which is now bolted to the trolley and the con rod has been painted black.
Main engine case has now been painted and mounted on the base which is now bolted to the trolley and the con rod has been painted black.
Small parts that need to be red have also been painted apart from the hopper as is still to come off cylinder (needs to be cut free as nut have corroded to being like round rivet heads).
Parts that bolt to the cylinder are in grey primer ready for silver painting.
Click images for larger pic's
Inlet valve seems to have had quite some trauma and a repair, it was bent in more than one plane.
I straightened as much as possible the turned 1mm off, guide will now need a phosphor bronze sleeve.
I also made a new ignition igniter pick spring as original was corroded to destruction.
Click images for larger pic's
Valve is now complete, stem is smooth and face has been machined then lightly ground in with fine grinding paste.
I have opened the inlet guide and fitted a phosphor sleeve then reamed to 10mm, Iíve re-cut the valve seat and ground lightly with fine grinding paste.
The protrusion of the exhaust valve guide had been broken so Iíve build up with plastic padding hard filler (as show in the before and after picture below).
I have painted some of the parts that come into contact with the cylinder silver as the cylinder will be silver when itís been bored and sleeved.
Iíve now got the hopper off the cylinder and have started filling corrosion voids prior to painting red.
A small update
Iíve now painted the head silver and after a preliminary filling Iíve rubbed down and coated the hopper with a very thick coat of red oxide high build primer.
As always
click thumbnails
I have finally started to paint the remaining red parts (hopper,crank and flywheels) so far I've painted the first coat of red
Click on images for larger piccy
Iíve done a bit more painting of some smaller parts
Iíve also completed the cam gears and fitted crank, they mesh and run fine, Iíve started preparing for flywheel fitting whilst waiting for the cylinder boring and sleeving.
Iíve made two new gib keys ready for fitment
Click images
The cam gear wheels are now sorted and Iíve had to sleeve the skew gear as it was a bit worn, the teeth are a bit pitted but I will have to go with it and Iíve preliminarily fitted the mag bracket/skew gear assembly.
Flywheels are now on with their gib keys and Iíve made a new governor slip ring as the old one was not only badly pitted but cracked as well.
I have had the cylinder bored as I didnít have enough travel to do it myself and in is the process of having liner fitted and Iím going to have to make new head studs.
After a lot of tooing and froing and a few quid the cylinder has now been bored, liners pressed in, bored again and honed.
Iíve machined the igniter hole and the half compression hole, Iíve also skimmed the piston as was a bit distorted to say the least, the rings are now within gap specí so at least Iíve saved there.
Iíve now painted cylinder and made cylinder and cylinder head retaining nuts and head studs, Iíve mounted the cylinder and fitted the head studs.
Iím in the process of fabricating a head gasket and rebuilding the head which will be then fitted.
Iíve repaired a crack in underside of the cylinder water jacket and covered with plates which I believe was more than likely caused by the over tightening of the water drain tap (taper thread).

Click images for large pic's
In the process of making most of the fixings as originals were so badly corroded they are eroded away to various degrees.
Iíve now fitted the valves to the head and fitted it to engine.
Iíve refurbished the igniter and fitted to the cylinder, new exhaust push rod made and now on with pick swan neck on and had to make a new pick spring as the original was corroded away.
Carb was in a terrible state of corrosion and wear, Iím making new butterfly, sleeving spindle and fitting with 2mm socket cap head set screws (original butterfly was soldered into spindle).
I also need to make new petrol, paraffin and water injection control valves as they are bent and badly worn.
Bottom bowl/inlet flap chamber was hideously corroded and needed machining to produce new flap seat
Iíve made new petrol, paraffin and water injection control valves, the throttle to governor lever was badly corroded and totally seized so Iíve made new roller and pin.
Click on images for big picture
Work on the carb is almost complete now just need to paint it and fit it to the cylinder head, the throttle butterfly and sleeved spindle are now fitted to carb.
Iíve also made new big end nuts and bolts
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Iíve now fitted new governor parts to the engine, Iíve also painted and fitted the carb with new valves.
Click images
Original exhaust rocker spring was badly corroded and already repaired, struggled making a new one but got there in the end as totally failed to source a new one.
Iím making a none return valve for the fuel system (one of two needed and I have one original) just thought Iíd have a go.
I have now cobbled a fuel supply and had the engine started but only for a few minutes the fuel needs to be controlled (none return valves and lower level fuel tank).
The video clip is the very first firing
Since the first firing I have been experimenting with fuel tank height and found that the outlet needs to be slightly lower than the inlet on the carb, Iíve now got it running continuously but itís too fast and although throttle is closed it wonít slow.
Iíve had the carb off again and re-set the throttle flap to ensure fully closing, it now is more controllable and now is running around a couple of hundred revís .
Whilst running and setting fuel there was a sudden lump and the mag landed beside me, basically the old repair that was once done years ago has let go breaking the cam gear spigot out of the main case, smashing the mag bracket and governor fork.
Many years ago when this engine was in used somehow the cam gear got broken out (as have now) and was repaired (obviously badly), also there was a repair to the bottom of the mag bracket (where the exhaust push rod goes through).
Basically the repair to the cam spigot mount let go, even if it hadnít as you will see by the pictures there were bad cracks that have been there for some years so disaster would have struck sooner or later one way or another.
After initial thoughts of dumping the project Iíve decided to rebuild  so watch this space.
Just a quick update to show that repair has commenced.
I have ground off the top of the cam spigot and made a new top which I have screwed on to hold new cam spigot pin.
Also Iíve put the mag bracket and governor fork to get copied at local casting foundry.
Click imgages for big pic's
He's back !
I have now had the parts cast at East Coast Castings and machined them, Iíve painted them and they are now on the engine.
Governor rod was bent in the incident but Iíve managed to straighten it to now run in its mounts.
Engine is now back to where it was before failure, a video in it's first light of day after rebuild
To my amazement I've also had it running on paraffin,
Have a look
After quite some weeks sorting my workshop after disposing of two lathes and installing a new one (well new to me) plus a couple of jobs promised to other people, Iíve made a start back on the Amanco.
Iíve had the bones of the fuel tank made by Andy Savage and Iíve fitted outlet bosses and temporarily mounted it on the stand/tool box Iíve made and installed behind the engine.
I had two solid fuel taps cast and machined them out as such items are so rare, they are temporarily mounted to set up the fuel system at the moment.
Iíve made filler necks and caps for the fuel tank Iíve yet to work out how to make the lid with the Associated Line logo embossed in it.
Just a small update as I havenít been able to to much for the last few weeks, Iíve commenced making the fuel tank top.
I couldnít get an embossed top in the size that the petrol paraffin has so Iíve utilized a petrol one and welded it to a flat disk of steel then made another outer ring to make up the thickness.
Need to make the drop down lip then fill the voids followed by painting, filler necks are now fitted.
Fuel lines and taps are now completed apart from paint as well.
Click images
Fuel tank top is now on the tank and in its red paint, the fuel lines are painted black all that really needed is the splash guard.
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Iíve made a pattern and a friend (Andy Savage) is making me a guard with ridges and returned edges (I havenít the equipment).
Engine has attended its first rally without a splash guard as not yet received (in fact received at that rally (Langley daffodil day 2012)), engine ran for the morning but sadly stopped after lunch as the igniter pick had worn out after just a few hour total running.
I have made a new pick from EN24T steel and dressed the igniter cam/anvil as was pitted from corrosion, it is made of something quite hard and this is probably why it carved the pick away so quick, edge of the cam is now straight and smoother with slight radius on the strike edge doesnít wear the pick as quick.
Having received the splash guard now Iíve fitted but is a bit higher than planned, this doesnít look bad but may attempt to reduce the height, in primer at the moment and have run out of paint so donít know what Iím going to do as its thirty quid a litre (min quant) and that a lot just for the guard (particularly as I intend selling it soon (lost heart a bit now)).
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Well! Itís been to another rally now with the new pick on and to my amazement there is still some sign of wear.
Iíve now sorted it for good, Iíve made a silver steel insert and hardened it and that wonít wear, I hear you cry ďitíll wear the camĒ but! Iíve found the cam to be mega hard as well so itíll take a long time to make a difference.
Whilst there I did some experimenting with valve spring tensions and found that the exhaust was fluttering and a more tension improved the running a lot.
Iíve since had it running in my workshop with shims fitted to the spring that I turned on the lathe and the video clip shows these clearly.
I've now sold the engine